The Routeburn track; our 32 Km treck across the mountains !

Day one of the Routeburn track 

Wednesday February 10th 2016

Although we have seen and done many things on our Middle Earth road trip for the last three weeks on the road, I’d like dedicate an entire blog to our most recent adventure, while it is still fresh in our minds

On the morning of Feb 1st we got dropped off by the bus at the Routeburn Shelter, about 1.5 hours out of QT (Queenstown). Along with a bunch of other enthusiastic hikers, we checked our packs one last time, put on our walking shoes and got ready for the long walk. We had  read about this track, we knew that there were going to be up hill sections, some forrest, some down hill but other than that we weren’t  sure what to expect. We had taken some time the days before to pack carefully and crossed our fingers that Matthew would accept the challenge of first having to put shoes AND socks on (and to keep them on) and second of carrying his own pack (weighing about 20 lbs) for many hours each day over the next three and a half days.

Matthew wearing shoes, socks AND backpack !

It was a brilliantly beautiful sunny day and we were excited to start the journey that we had planned (and booked) 6 months ago. After some minor protests and three attempts to remove his socks and shoes, and a few times of throwing his pack on the ground (all within the first 20 minutes of the walk), Matthew finally accepted the extra load, and we were all able to proceed forward, with Matthew ,as usual, leading the way and setting a fast pace for us all to follow. The path took us through a beautiful forrest, with a gradual, yet gentle uphill., we walked along side a fast flowing river with many waterfalls and great views of the mountain range all around. 

Along the way we had a close encounter with a helicopter, hovering just above the trees, lowering a chemical toilet onto the remote path ! The pride and care that the Department of Conservation (DoC)-which is in charge of the Routeburn and all the “Great Walks” in New Zealand-was obvious everywhere in how well the path was maintained in such a difficult to access and constantly fluctuating terrain, also in  the quality of the shelters, facilities and the presence of helpful and knowledgeable rangers at every stop. New Zealand has really got this together!  Before we knew it, we had walked  three and a half hours and had arrived at our first stop: The lovely Routeburn Falls Hut where we found a kitchen (gas burners and sinks) and our bunk beds. Situated high on the mountain, just at the limit of the tree line and on the edge of beautiful waterfalls. This was were we would be spending our first night. Our next challenge was to be our toughest one yet: Helping Matthew through the long night in a shared bunk room (50 bunk beds divided up into 2 open framed cabins).

Meg resting after our first day of hiking

As I said, this was to be our biggest challenge and one which would steal away many hours of sleep for us and those around us!  Every since we have left the boat, Matthew had been acting up at night. We aren’t sure if it is the change in environment, routine, hormones (he IS 16 after all!), or maybe all of these factors combined but the results are:  a sudden outburst- a loud yell, followed by high pitch squeal, so we have had to be on our toes to keep him quiet at night- for the sake of others campers so close around us, I won’t lie you, this was not easy for anyone, we had to be very quick at comforting him and shushing him before too many people woke up. Mark was particularly good at this and usually Matthew would quiet down quickly. The next morning we did a little bit of explaining and apologizing and people were quite good about it all. With patience and determination we made it through the three nights, somehow. Poor Matthew had a really tough time with all those people in such close proximity at night !  

Matthew was a real trooper on this hike

“Shhh !  I think I hear some Orcs coming this way !”  

However this was really the only difficulty we had on our hike. During the day Matthew was a happy hiker, he walked along with no complaints and almost always with an easy smile on his face. Meghan did really fantastic as well, no surprises there, she just loved the walk and the phenomenal scenery. We are grateful to have achieved this walk regardless of the challenges, it was so spectacular ! Many people consider the Routeburn track to be the most beautiful of all the Great Walks in New Zealand and we now know why, it was really, 32 km of pure bliss for all of our senses ! 

The second day we walked up to the highest point of the walk- The Harris Saddle, mid point between the two national Parks: Fiordland National Park and Mount Aspiring National Park. We were up above the tree line, over 1200 metres in altitude. On this day there was a bit of cloud, so that the views were sometimes hidden from us but by then we were too busy enjoying a great encounter with some of the local Kea birds- The only alpine parrot in the world- one of which landed just one foot in front of us on the path, they were curious about us and that's why they came in so close. These birds are  loud, cheeky and very funny to watch.

MC with Kea- Mark and Matthew in the background

One of the bonuses of the Routeburn track; Getting up close and personal with the KEA: the only alpine parrot in the world, quite a cheeky fellow !

Then the clouds parted and we had jaw dropping views of the lakes and valleys below once more.  This second day took us a bit longer to hike as we travelled more than 11 km up and down hill, to finally arrive at the MacKenzie Lake Shelter, where the kids enjoyed a swim in the cool lake. The third day took us up again back to some magnificent views of the valley and beside some towering waterfalls- where we stopped to have lunch in the mist. 

A glacier seen from afar

We were lucky to have very good weather as this part of New Zealand often gets alot of rain. We had sunshine most of the time, some clouds on part of day two, and on the day we hiked out (1 hour back to the parking lot) it was raining and grey so it was a good day to stop !  

Millford Sound looking Eerie in the clouds

Before heading back to QT we had arranged to get transport to the Milford Sound (about 2 hours drive from the end of the Routeburn Track). There we boarded a boat and took a 2 hour scenic cruise in the spectacular Sound, even in the rain, it was very special to see the high cliffs and waterfalls of the majestic Milford Fjiord, and getting our first glimpse of the Tasman Sea ! We returned back to our campground in QT at around 8pm, had a well needed shower and sleep !  

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Meghan on Amelie. Routeburn Track and Milford Sound

On the first of February, we left our campground early in the morning, said, "See you later!," to Queenstown and took the bus into the Southern Alps!

We decided to do the track in four days so we stayed 3 nights in cabins.  The first day, we were very lucky and we had the sunniest day imaginable.  The second was a bit cloudy.  The third day, we got sun again so we were able to see the views we had missed the day before.  The last day, it was the only day that really rained but that was okay because we only had to walk an hour anyways.  Considering the fact that that area has rain more than half of the days of the year, we were pretty lucky!

We only did one Great Walk so I can't compare the Routeburn Track to any other tracks but I must say, as far as the hikes I've done and the views I've seen: I think this has got to be my favourite hike I've ever done!   The forests, the mountains, the lakes, the wildlife: it surpasses anything I've ever seen!   We got amazing views of valleys, we got to swim in fresh (but quite cold) mountain lakes, and we got to see rare wildlife such as the kea, New Zealand's alpine parrot.

The kea is endemic to only the South Island of New Zealand and is the only alpine parrot in the world!  It is however, despite the fact it lives in the mountains, very similar to regular parrots.  They are very colourful, have a very loud and distinguishing cry, and are very mischievous and clever!

Another great thing I treasure about our time on the Routeburn Track is the fact that we could drink the stream water (only the moving water streams not the still, lake water though).  Despite everything I've ever done, I have never been able to drink water straight out of a stream!  It just made it feel like we were even farther away from civilization and somehow, that felt good.  It just goes to prove that going natural is the best way to go because it was the best tasting water I have ever drank!

On the fourth day, after we finished the one hour walk from Howden Hut, we took a bus up to the famous Milford Sound (FYI: they call it a sound but it's actually a fiord).  Despite the rainy weather, the Milford Sound was pretty cool.  We took a boat cruise on it so we got to get up close to lots of waterfalls, sea lion colonies, and see the tall, grassy cliffs towering over the deep water inlet (which is what makes it a fiord).