VANUATU PART ONE: Aneityum and Tanna

Dug Out outrigger canoes, Vanuatu

Saturday, September 3rd, 2016

Aneityum Island

I couldn’t quite put my finger on it, what was it about Vanuatu that I like so much ? It is my second visit to this country and I was surprised to see that upon arriving I was filled with the same peaceful feeling as I'd had five years ago, so, what is it about this place ? I wonder 

After the first few days, I think I’ve finally figured it out: It is the “Zero-Energy” of the place. The absence of noise and technology. It is the quiet, soul-nourishing peace of the place that I love so much !  

“So? How is that different from every other place you’ve been in the South Pacific?”, I hear you ask. 

Well, in direct contrast to the lovely and lively people of Fiji, the people here are very reserved. They are polite and welcoming, but not in a festive way like their neighbours to the East.You can wonder around the still villages, and not encounter anyone, those you will see in the distance are aware of you, surely, but they go about their business, carrying the firewood or fruit on their backs. If you go to them and say hello they will happily speak to you and welcome you, but that is all up to you it seems. We are utterly left alone here, and that is just what I was yearning for it seems...

Add to this an uncommon natural beauty of the surroundings. Aneityum, the first island we visited, has a very tidy village, reminiscent of the cleanliness you see in the French Polynesian islands, it must be from the European influence.

Mystery Island:

What is unique about Aneityum though is that they have an island which was designated specifically for the purpose of entertaining cruise ship guests. It is an idyllic white sandy island, complete with turquoise waters, surrounding reef great for snorkeling and swimming. The island is set up with the traditional bamboo thatched houses that we see in the “real” village in Aneityum, except that these houses are completely empty on non cruise ship days. 

The island does not have any inhabitants. 

It is an interesting concept to us that these islanders have figured out a way to keep their everyday life separate from the craziness that comes with the arrival of thousands of tourists that land on the shores across the bay from them, on those days the villagers hop into their long boats loaded with crafts and souvenirs to sell at the “market” stalls of Mystery Island. Also kids dressed in their traditional grass skirts greet the passengers with song and dance. The make shift signs are all announcing tours, “Swim with Turtles!” “ Traditional Dance Displays”, Kayaks to Rent” etc...We enjoyed visiting the island one cruise ship day and then the next day when we had the whole island completely to ourselves, this gave us a chance to feel so privileged to have seen life in Vanuatu, behind the emerald curtain.....

The beach on Mystery Island

Mark enjoying a dip, all alone, on Mystery Island

Mt Yasur, Tanna Island: 

“TAKE ME TO....THE VOLCANO!!!!”                           (Joe Banks in: Joe Versus the Volcano)

For fans of the movie…please note orange soda product placement ! 

After leaving Aneityum, we high tailed it to the next island called Tanna, to get our volcano fix ~   Mt Yasur, is the 6th most active volcano in the world, and maybe, perhaps, the only one you can get so close to the rim to witness all of the intense power of the volcano. As you step out of the truck, at the base of the stairs leading to the top of the crater, a moonlike landscape surrounds you. Black ash and extrusive igneous rocks abound. As a welcome, the volcano lets out a mighty roar and smoke billows into the sky, yellow, black, brown, grey  pyroclastic clouds, then your ears drums pop and you see a burst of red lava erupting upwards above you, the lava is expelled in clumps, some larger than the others and these partly solidify before landing with a “wet blanket thump" on the ground around the crater. This show consistently delivers thrills such as these, in intervals of only a few minutes.and each time, more terrifying than the next, the crater breathes and sounds like a massive dragon! The power of it all is quite mind boggling really. 

Awesome Mount Yasur

Family portrait on the rim of the volcano

When the sun sets, the spectacle inspires even more wonder from us all....the lava is now fluorescent red and each explosion is like the most epic of all fireworks display every seen....

Matthew silhouetted in front of a very active Mt Yasur !

Natures most awe inspiring spectacle 

Powerful eruptions, coming one after the other

When I was here with Mahina Expeditions back in 2011, the  volcano tour was a lot more low key. Our captain had hired a driver from the village near Port Resolution and we were driven to the crater, as we were on this day, but now, they have organized the tours more formally. Our group was greeted (in both French and English) at the Mt Yasur centre, and we were given a safety briefing, then a safety officer was designated to your group along with your guide and we are given specific instruction: “not to run away from any eruption”, to avoid anyone getting hurt!

The Volcano Dance

At the centre we were also treated to a traditional ceremony complete with songs and dances and an offering of kava to the traditionally clad chief. One of the dances performed before our ascent to the crater was called the “Volcano Dance” and it ended with each of us receiving a necklace of flowers to protect us from the volcano. There have been a few rumours of accidents happening at the site over the last few years so it is nice to see that some safety precautions have been put in place, but still, there is no greater adrenaline rush than to know that you are this close to danger and that the safety standards put in place here are very different than those that would be in place back home. There is just NO WAY anyone would get away with this back in Canada or the U.S. To really emphasize this, just as everyone was leaving the top crater,  one particularly large “Lava Clump”  (the size of a large coffee table) landed on the spot where our friend Matt’s backpack had been resting only ten minutes before, that REALLY brings chills that are hard to forget ! All and all  we had a fantastic experience and we give Mt Yasur Volcano : Two Flaming Thumbs Up !

Meg takes a photo of the eruption while Matthew watches 

      

Next stop: Erramongo Island!

We are now safely anchored in Dylan’s Bay in Erramongo Island. Site of the last cannibalistic event in Vanuatu’s known history. More about this and other adventures in our next blog.

Until then, we send you loads of love from the 4 Ms at Sea